Research and Development of Wear Resistance for Physically Disabled Men Jackets
|School||Beijing Institute of Clothing Technology|
|Course||Textile Material and Textiles Design|
|Keywords||Physically disabled persons Men’s jacket Wear resistance Tensile properties Functional design|
Clothing will be damaged during daily wear because of friction and other complex stress. As the physically disabled persons’action need the support of mobility aids, the clothing suffer more friction and other complex stress bridged from mobility aids which accelerated the clothing damage, and reduced the life of clothing.In this paper, a series of experiments were designed according to physically disabled persons’wearing condition and their special needs.. First, a survey about the actual needs of physically disabled persons were conducted. We know the actual needs of physically disabled persons and specific problems in their daily activities through questionnaires, interviews, and observation; Second, several experiments including the wear resistance tests, material mechanical tests, and cross‐compound tests were taken to simulate the process of stress state of physically disabled persons’daily wear. Correlation analysis, regression analysis and orthogonal analysis were used to get the final results of fine fabric combination. Third, the final jackets designed for the physically disabled persons were got through the work following as construction design, construction amended, grey cloth prototype, and the final clothing; Last, evaluation wear jacket by try to wear.The conclusions were got from the above experiments. A) The main parts of clothing where easy to abrasion for the physically disabled persons are cuffs, forearms, underarms, etc. Loose‐fitted jacket is the main style for physically disabled persons’outwear; B) The conclusion that breaking strength and broken power have a significant positive correlation with the wear index, and stiffness was significantly negatively correlated with the wear index was found, The regression equation was Wear resistance index(WI)=217561.93+0.57 X1 +126.42X2‐33100.73 X3 (X1 is Breaking strength, X2 is Broken power, X3 is Stiffness) ;C) The fabric combination Khaki fabric A3, coated fabric B2, composite fabric C4, Suede D1 were eventually selected as the main fabric for the final jackets through cross‐compound experiments and joint strength test. The optimal combination of sewing parameters is a3b3c1 from orthogonal experiments,which means with the 15tex high‐strength sewing thread,14pin/3cm needle distance and Slot joint method; D) The subjects gave a more comfortable evaluation from the wear trial. They also proved the final jacket has better wear resistance than ordinary jacket.This paper provides a theoretical and practical basis for the research of wear resistance for physically disabled men jackets.