Dissertation
Dissertation > Industrial Technology > Light industry,handicrafts > Garment industry,footwear industry > Garment industry > Processing > The sewing process

Soybean protein fiber woven fabric sewing flatness of

Author ChangZuo
Tutor FangLiYing
School Zhejiang University of Technology
Course Fashion Design and Engineering
Keywords soybean protein fiber woven fabric sewing formation physical and mechanical properties sewing conditions
CLC TS941.63
Type Master's thesis
Year 2011
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Soybean protein fiber is by far by the independent research and development of scientific and technical personnel, and industrial test of the international community made the first successful fiber, it is widely used in production of high-end bedding、pajamas、suits、etc. Because of its soft and smooth feel, good drape, moisture permeability, and good skin affinity, but it is often uneven phenomenon in the sewing process, which is seriously affecting the quality of the appearance. The thesis is based in this situation, the writer selects three types of woven fabric, which is silk/soybean, cotton/soybean, wool/soybean protein fiber and uses the FAST and KES physical and mechanical properties of the system to test the physical and mechanical properties of fabrics on the subjective, the objective flatness of sewing and changing the sewing process parameters on the flatness of sewing. On this basis, the introduction of a variety of statistical theory, regression analysis, studied by means of orthogonal test the relationship between these objects.Firstly, soybean protein fiber and sewing on the flatness of the current situation at home and abroad more comprehensive review, analysis by scholars in this field study, using mathematical methods and results, described woven fabric of soybean protein seam smoothness Significance.Then the writer subsequently tests the three soybean protein woven fabrics,silk/soybean, cotton/soybean, wool/soybean protein fiber woven Fabrics physical and mechanical properties compared using mean variance analysis: (1) silk/soybean protein fiber bending of woven fabrics woven rigidity B, the smallest surface roughness SMD, indicating that the fabric surface is smooth, but the material more difficult Pressing stereotypes; (2) Cotton/soybean protein fiber woven Fabrics shear rigidity G, the average coefficient of friction MMD maximum, indicating that this more uniform fabric structure, and fabric material in the shop, cutting, sewing process easier; (3) wool/soybean protein fiber woven Fabrics Pleated extension of E and the maximum recovery angle, indicating that the fabric take comfort, and Wrinkle better performance.Then this paper, a simple correlation coefficient Pearson correlation coefficient and Spearman rank test and analysis focus on three types of woven Fabrics and subjective physical and mechanical properties of seam wrinkle, shrink the correlation between objective and joint regression. The results showed that: (1) silk/soybean protein fiber woven fabric woven seam shrinkage with the objective physical properties of the fabric almost no relationship, there is a big and relevant mechanical properties, eSpecially with the extension of E, the shear stiffness G SMD fabric surface roughness and Significant relationship between subjective seam wrinkle and physical and mechanical properties of the fabric of the relationship is not obvious; (2) Cotton/ soybean protein fiber woven fabric woven fabric objective seam shrinkage and mechanical properties have a greater correlation and the reduced performance of the objective not the same as sewing, sewing subjective physical properties and fabric wrinkle closer relationship, particularly with the weight, thickness, surface friction coefficient Significant mean differences between MMD; (3) Wool/Soybean protein fiber woven fabric woven seam shrinkage and mechanical properties of the objective a relatively close relationship, the relationship with the physical properties is relatively small. One of the indicators have a relatively Significant bending stiffness B, the surface roughness of SMD, the average friction coefficient MIU, subjective joint wrinkled and physical properties of fabrics have a greater relevance, particularly with the thickness of fabric there is a strong positive correlation between T2.Then again this also using orthogonal test method for three types of fabric for optimum sewing conditions, experimental results show that: silk/soybean protein fiber fabric is characterized by the optimal sewing conditions: the thread tension shoud be low, stitch density is 14-pin/3cm , foot pressure and feed dog height should be low; cotton/soybean protein fiber fabric is characterized by the optimal sewing conditions: a certain tension suture, commonly used 40S/2 stitches, 12 needle, stitch density, no Significant law. Wool/soybean protein fiber fabric is characterized by the optimal sewing conditions: a certain tension suture, suture can improve the use of filament formation, 12 the following machine needle, stitch density, no obvious pattern. In summary, this more comprehensive analysis of the impact of silk/soybean, cotton/soybean, wool/soybean protein fiber woven fabric woven seam smoothness inherent physical and mechanical properties and conditions of the external factors of sewing, sewing through the formation of internal influence degree to identify the main external physical and mechanical properties Significantly improved the sewing seam smoothness conditions, which will help garment processing enterprises in the processing of three types of fabric quickly and accurately select the sewing process, control the quality of garment sewing.

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